The Journey Begins

Thanks for joining me!

As some of you may recall I made it my New Years’ Resolution to walk some of the Camino de Santiago in Northern Spain – 117km from Sarria to Santiago de Compostela – one of the pilgrim ways leading to burial site of the apostle St James. It seemed a fitting way to mark the transition from full time work – time to explore, think and reflect and do something in memory of our stillborn daughter, Charlotte, who would have been 21 this year. For those of you who what to read Charlotte’s story or support the work of Tommy’s please go to my Just Giving page:

https://uk.virginmoneygiving.com/carolinegood1

Day 1 Sarria to Morgade

An uneventful journey with Ryanair from Stanstead to Santiago de Compostela – nothing unpleasant to say about them just a different experience after business travel – your luggage must be this size, weight etc made the whole packing experience quite stressful and did I remember to book a seat on the plane with access to the loo or will we be standing crossing our legs! All part of the transition from Corporate life! 

As we are Camino novices we have done things in a slightly luxurious way – easy stages around 12 km a day, luggage porting rather than carrying our kit and upmarket accommodation. No pilgrim hostels, dormitories for 20 – 30 new friends and paper sheets for us – not this time. Even on the flight out we fell into conversation with others and shared their Camino stories. One group of ladies were on their 5th Camino and had their kit for a week in the carry on allowed by Ryanair (tiny) – a seriously impressive feat! 

Once in Spain, we drove the entire 117 kms from the airport to our start point in Sarria – as the minutes ticked by and we saw footsore pilgrims out of the window I was wondering whether our adventure was such a good idea, especially when our taxi driver pointed out, some distance from our hotel, the spot where we would cross the road we were driving along the next day! I am with two friends who I joined the Army with over 40 years ago – we have two dodgy hips and one metal ankle between us – what could possibly go wrong! 

Sarria is a lovely pilgrim-focused town – everyone is dressed in ‘pilgrim uniform’ slouch hats, walking trousers, boots, walking stick and back pack! After settling into our hotel we set off in search of food – no shortage of choice – and we settled on a very keenly priced set menu of huge grilled prawns, pork and crepes before getting an early night. 

After a mean breakfast of local ham, cheese and pastries and more convivial sharing of countries of origin and routes for the day, we got our first stamps in our Pilgrim Passports (you need a minimum of 2 per day along the route to get your certificate in Santiago de Compostela) and set off.

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Our first destination was the Monastery of Santa Maria Magdalena, on the outskirts of Sarria, a working monastery where we had to ring the bell and wait for someone to let us in to stamp our passports. It was beautiful and peaceful – lush, well tended plants in an inner courtyard and wonderful mosaic floors. After a quick glimpse in the chapel we were off and on our way, getting caught in the crowds of fellow pilgrims setting off from Sarria. One of the first things we learned is that it is not difficult to find your way – the route is well signed with yellow shells and arrows pointing the way and telling you the distance from Santiago de Compostelo and you are rarely alone, frequently passed by or overtaking others doing the Camino by foot, bicycle or horse, all of whom greet you with a cheery, convivial ‘Bon Camino’.

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Our walk to Morgade was about 12kms and took around 4 hours in beautiful countryside with amazing views and vistas. Certainly more hilly than North Hampshire and I was grateful for the 9lbs or 4 bags of sugar that I had lost since stopping working and did not need to drag up and down the climbs! On the rare parts of the route where we were alone it was divine – only the sound of the birds, our footfall and the scallop shell on my backpack acting like a metronome to break the silence. Our route took us through mainly farmland and country tracks and through tiny hamlets where we could get stamps for our Pilgrim Passports and delicious coffee and pastries. Case Morgade our stopping point for the day was very welcome as feet were throbbing and we had worked up a thirst. We had sandwiches and a local delicacy ‘tuna pie’ – a kind of tuna empinada that was delicious – before phoning the hosts at our Case Rural to ask for a lift to our accommodation for the night.

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After a 14 km journey from Morgade through narrow country lanes we came to a beautiful, isolated stone, farmhouse in the middle of nowhere which was our home for the night. What a treat – although isolated it was gorgeous – stone walls and wood or tiled floors – and views of the countryside forever. I had a lovely four poster bed and a full size bath – luxury. After a simple but tasty and filling meal there was just time to watch the sun set over the hills before retiring for the night.

Day 2 Morgade to Portomarin

Another beautiful day on the Camino which started with a lovely sunrise over the hills and a simple breakfast of freshly squeezed orange juice, coffee, toast and jam, after which our lovely host drove us back to the previous days’ pick up point through mist filled valleys to start our walk. Another day of winding along farm tracks through charming hamlets with amazingly lush vegetation – in particular beautiful purple and yellow wild lupins, fig trees, vines – and pine forests. Importantly we passed the 100km way marker telling us the distance to Santiago.

First stop of the day was an Alberge (hostels aimed mainly at pilgrims in this part of Spain) in the hamlet of Mercadoiro for coffee. As with others we have seen this was modern, beautifully maintained, lovely grounds, and, importantly, super clean loos! Delicious freshly squeezed orange juice, cheesecake and first class coffee were all on offer and while we are among the first to arrive the place was soon filling up with other Camino walkers all keen to chat and share experiences and trade places of origin.

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Having upped the caffeine levels we set off heading for the sunken town of Portomarin, where the church was relocated stone by stone when the original town was flooded to help create a dam to provide water to the local area. The walk was spectacular, especially when we started the descent into Portomarin and had a superb view of the dam and surrounding hills. Having walked over the dam we climbed the 50+ steps up into the town of Portomarin in search of our bed for the night. We found our hotel down a street of white houses, with a garden opposite, and a sweet little church just next door.

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Day 3 Portomarin to Ventas de Naron

Our longest day so far – in every sense! What comes down must go up so after the lovely descent into Portomarin we had 13 km uphill – pretty much all day. Aside from the initial climb through woodland it was also alongside main roads for much of the journey and we had our first rain. The first coffee stop after 7.5km in Gonzar was a welcome break, hereinafter know as the ‘truck stop’, and a chance to break out and road test the waterproofs and rain-covers before trudging on. As we walked into Ventas de Naron the sun came out and the countryside was much prettier but it was a relief to sit down and tuck into mixed salad and ham sandwiches knowing we had completed our day’s walk and 40km from the start.

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So a few lessons so far – you only need half the kit you bring, in particular clothes to change into in the evening are a waste of time, no one cares and everyone is too tired to bother and you can wear the same walking gear 3 days on the trot. Moleskin (other brands are available) is the greatest invention in the universe. Being intimately acquainted with your footwear is a must so you know where it fits and where it rubs so you know where to put moleskin is vital – so far no blisters. Boots or trainers are a personal choice – I favour boots as they maintain their shape as my feet expand through the day and do not rub as much as trainers so less risk of blisters. What to wear to walk – I favour leggings – mould to the body – have everything from Quecha to M&S to Primani – all are good. For tops – good old fashioned polo shirts with collars or cotton t shirts and some kind of neck scarf seem to be the business. Hats are a choice depending on heat – not bothered so far but will if it gets much hotter. Poles are equally a do you/don’t you choice – carried mine for the first two days but found I preferred to have my camera to hand so have not bothered since.

We have again got a lovely rural refuge to stay in. This time a renovated manor house out in the country. It is beautifully quiet and relaxing and a lovely spot to rest and reflect ahead of the next phase of our journey – and a courtyard to hang our washing out!

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Day 4 Ventas de Naron to Palas de Rei

Woke up to another beautiful day and the most delicious breakfast – fresh nectarines and wild strawberries, Santorini cake (a bit like an almond sponge), fresh squeezed orange juice and freshly made scrambled egg (we saw the eggs being delivered). Having had a leisurely breakfast we got a taxi back to Ventas de Naron to start our days’ walk. The tiny, tiny church of Santa Maria Magdalena was open and a blind Knight’s Templar was stamping Pilgrim Passports. In order to qualify for the Compostela you need at least 2 stamps a day from different spots along the route. Well it gets quite addictive as you hunt out stamps in every monument, Alberge or resting place – we have 25 already and have bought a second Passport as we only have one page left after 4 days!

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We set off making a short climb through eucalyptus forests up into the hills above Palas de Rei. First stop was the little hamlet of Ligonde where we saw a new born calf taking its first steps and a lady selling cheese from her kitchen window. We then stopped off at a small Donativo (a charitable Pilgrim’s hostel funded by donation) run by a Christian charity called La Fuente del Peregrino, which was staffed by a group we called the ‘Colorado kids’ a goup of charming young people who had come from Colorado for a fortnight to volunteer and then walk the Camino.  They were offering free coffee, fruit and hugs and there was a group of volunteers and pilgrims singing folk songs from the 60s like ‘Where have all the flowers gone?’ and Bob Dylan classics like “Blowing in the Wind’. They also handed out some lovely leaflets on the Five Symbols from the Camino using key features of the Camino such as the shells, the arrows and backpack as metaphors for life. (https://lafuentedelperegrino.com/en/pilgrims/the5symbols/). It was all rather moving. 

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After our charming spell in Lagonde we moved on to Portas for our first coffee stop, Albergue a paso de Formiga, where in addition to delicious coffee, fine tortilla was on offer and there were some fabulous sculptures of ants in the garden. We had strong winds so decided not to linger as you chill quickly when you stop walking and headed off. At this point we made the decision to add an additional 5km (are we mad – what’s a few more?!!) to our day to walk to the Monastery of San Vilar de Donas. It was a worthwhile diversion to see an extremely well preserved 12 Century Monastery with some fantastic frescos, including a rare depiction of the pregnant Virgin Mary. 

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After our detour to the monastery we headed back to pick up the Camino and down into Palas de Rei (Palace of the Kings), our final stop for the day. In very broken Spanish I rang for our transport, feeling a complete failure when the response came back in English! We sat picnicking on the steps of the Town Hall waiting for our lift.  We were again in a lovely country house in our own little complex of two rooms. We had a delicious gourmet level meal of grilled asparagas, delicious hake and strawberry mousse. The biggest treat was real VEG, to give us a break from endless chips that seem to come with all meals.  We felt a great sense of achievement having completed our longest day so far and 55kms in total! We were put somewhat to shame by some of our fellow Irish and Singaporean pilgrims who seem to be clocking up about 30km a day! However, on reflection our Camino approach has suited us – about 4 – 5 hrs walking, a nice coffee stop somewhere midway, a nice break post walking and then off to find the accommodation for the night so plenty of time to note all the points of interest along the way. It has also meant we have felt stronger each day not flagging as the days pass.

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Day 5 Palas de Rei to Melide

Day 5 saw us walking around 15 km. We asked our host to drop us at the 12^thCentury Church of San Tirso, the second oldest Pilgrim stamp on the Camino. I lit a candle in the Church for Charlotte, Archie and Aelfie (the babies lost in my family) and we set off for our days’ walk.  Early mornings as you set off when the streets are largely empty, other than the fellow walkers, are the nicest – the light is super and there is a real sense of camaraderie as you greet familiar faces and new ones with a cheery ‘Bon Camino’. There is a group of 18 from Leicester who we see daily who greet us with a salute as we are known as the three Captains or “Army Girls’ and somehow we seem to have gained a reputation for knowing what we are doing! Although I suspect that is more Nannette rather than Julia and me as Nannette is known as Pilgrim Poppins as her packback has everything in it from gorilla tape to self moulding glue – there is no situation that she is not equipped for! 

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Everyone goes at their own pace and you chat to people for a while then they walk on or you walk on, usually to see you again further down the way. Even in our little group of three sometimes we walk together, sometimes on our own and sometimes with other people – all very easy.

We stopped for a quick bit of silliness by the Pilgrim statue as we left Palas de Rei and then set off. First bit of encouragement was as we crossed a bridge over a road and saw a sign for Santiago – 65km – a great improvement on 117kms. Second stamp of the day came from the tiny Church of St Julian, on the outskirts of Carballal. St Julian it would appear is the patron saint of pilgrims and became so to atone for accidently murdering his parents – hmm!

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From there we had the most beautiful walk through farmland, over bridges and through eucaplytus forests (sadly not strong enough to clear my sinuses but great to walk through) to the hamlet of Casanova. This was our coffee break for the day. We chatted with a mother and daughter over coffee and tortilla (the best on the Camino apparently – it was delicious and freshly cooked). It turned out they were from Folkstone and part of the Military Wives choir so addresses were exchanged for Nannette’s daughter-in-law who sings who will be moving to Folkestone in the summer.

Next stop was a sweet little hamlet called Leboreiro where three elderly village residents insisted on teaching us how to pronounce the name in Galician and where we visited the Church of Santa Maria de Leboreiro for our next stamp. We were convinced our Pilgrim passports were stamped by Jesus, a most serene lookalike who made eye contact with everyone getting a stamp (most churches have someone sitting in them to stamp passports – we think to encourage donation!).

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From Leboreiro it was a beautiful forest walk to Furelos a bridged village on the outskirst of Melide, our stop for the night. The medieval stone bridge at Furelos was just gorgeous with lush trees and water babbling and the most delicious smell of pizza ovens.  

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We pushed on into Melide as we were keen to visit Pulperia A Garnacha to sample octopus, one of the many local delicacies of Galicia. The very cheerful chappy cooking the octopus cut us a piece to try – it was delicious and tender and had a similar texture and taste to lobster. We passed a happy hour or so in this very lively place before heading to our accommodation.

We spend the night in Pazo de Sedor, certainly the best place we have stayed so far. It ticked all the boxes – full size baths (very helpful), lovely sheets and beds, delicious supper and breakfast, gorgeous surroundings and gardens and a view to die for. We would have gladly taken a day off to enjoy more of this divine place but more Camino awaited….

So food on the Camino – as you might imagine fuel for the journey is important. Beef, pork, fish and veal are plentiful in the region. Breakfasts are very mixed – pretty much everywhere freshly squeezed orange juice and coffee. What else comes with it varies – from a single slice of toast and some cake to hams, cheese, cereal and freshly scrambled egg. It is both a source of fascination and anxiety as to what will be on offer with the long walk ahead. I have no idea why the anxiety as there are plenty of places offering food and drink en route. We have surprisingly found we are not hungry during the day, even when we stop for the day and stop for a drink and maybe tapas or ice cream. Evening meals again have varied from the ubiquitous 10 euro pilgrim meal which when best value gives you three courses, coffee, wine and water to some really high end cooking. Vegetables other than potatoes seem in short supply – strange as they are growing everywhere. Chips seem to come with nearly every meal and Vienetta seems to qualify as ‘ice cream’ in many places.  We have got cute to the absence of veg and have started asking which at least gets us some salad!

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Day 6 Melide to Arzua

Very, very sad to leave Pazo Sedoro, it would have been so easy to stay but after ‘best breakfast yet’ our taxi turned up to drop us at our start point for the day. We left Melide as the Sunday fruit and veg market was setting up. The cherries looked delicious but we were still full from breakfast. We set off just behind the Leicester group and after our morning salute were on our way. Melide is where the Camino Primitivo joins the Camino Frances and we did meet one or two walkers with tales of the savagery of the route and the misery of rain sodden days. The Primitivo is a more hilly and therefore tougher route than the Frances which we are taking. 

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It was just a charming day’s walking through lovely forests, more eucalyptus, but some fairly steep climbs throughout the day.  We paused in Boente to get our stamp in the church of Santa de le Boente before cracking on to Castanada for our coffee break. Today’s coffee campanions were Irish Liz a TEFL teacher from Northern Ireland and a lovely retired couple also coincidently from Northern Ireland. We had a lovely energising conversation on the inadequacy of our current political leaders in dealing with Brexit and then we were on our way.

From Castanada we headed to Ribadiso de Baizo – more beautiful Galician houses and country roads and fantastic views of hills and forests. While this is a lovely village and the river is meant to be a famous spot for walkers to paddle our boots stayed firmly on. There are two schools of thought on this – the boots on all day until no longer on duty or boots off at any opportunity. Personally I favour the former – when they are on they on, if all is well do not break a winning formula!

From the watery cool of Ribadiso we had a fairly steep climb to Arzua, famed for it’s ‘Protest cheese’ in the shape of a ladies breast. The story we were told was that a visiting Pope told the towns’ people that their statues were too well endowed and needed to be reduced so the cheeses were made in defiance. Who knows if it is true but it is a fun story.

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One of the things that has amused us is what we have called the ‘Ninja pilgrims’. Generally, they walk fast have leggings with shorts over the top, one stick, waterproof jackets (whatever the weather), hats, sunglasses and full face covering. We managed to capture one on camera today.

The entrance to Arzua was a bit grim – industrial and unattractive. We wandered into town found our accommodation pick up spot and then found somewhere to have a much needed drink.

We found the most hospitable Italian restaurant with a guitar playing waiter and a pirate chef. The walls were covered in graffiti from many Camino walkers and we left our mark on the walls alongside many others. Very chuffed to have now walk 85kms with another 40 odd to go. As we were waiting for our ‘wheels’ to our accommodation we saw our lovely Leicester group, some of whom were suffering quire badly with blisters – we donated a role of our miracle fix – Moleskin – in the hope that it would help!

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Our accommodation was another lovely country house, this time with beamed ceilings and sloping roofs and it’s own chapel in the grounds.  All accommodation has been gorgeous and quaint in its own way with little quirks. This evening it was low beams and ‘origami baths’ ie baths that you need to fold into and out of, unsure how to get in or out or which limb to try and soak first. Dinner was Galician fish soup, delicious and a meal in its’ own right, followed by chicken and boiled potatoes – other veg were again conspicuous by their absence but a request for ‘verduros’ usually produces a delicious salad. Pudding was a very light ‘cheesecake’ more like a cross between mousse and tiramisu. We still have not quite got our head around the Galician the menu – Plate 1 and Plate 2 are two equal size dishes not a starter and a main as at home.

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Day 7 Arzua to A Rua

Slight trepidation for Day 7 as it was the longest day at 20km. We were almost grateful for the fine drizzle we awoke to as it meant it would be cool. Thankfully this was a day with a good breakfast so we filled up with cereal, cold meats, cheese and toast ready for the day ahead. We anticipated more people from this point on as Arzua is where the coastal Camino del Norte joins heading to Santiago, although there were a few groups en route we did not really detect much bigger numbers. 

We were dropped back in Arzua where we got our second stamp of the day at the Church of St James (Iglesia de Santiago – much nicer sounding in Spanish!) from a lovely cheery Italian Camino volunteer. This church contained a statue of Saint Raymond de Nonnatus, patron saint of midwives and the inspiration for Nonnatus House for fans of Call the Midwife. 

One thing it is worth bringing on the Camino is change. Many of the places offering stamps for the Pilgrim Passport are churches, religious/spiritual houses or people funding themselves along the Camino, all of whom welcome a donation however small. Similarly, many cafes will charge you to use their facilities if you are not buying any food or drink.

After the church we stopped in the town square to take pictures of a statue paying homage to the cheese of Arzua, a set of hands holding a local cheese and then set off. The drizzle soon stopped and the sun came out. Our walk although long was very pleasant through lovely eucalyptus forests with the most wonderful smell. They say that this part of Spain is like Ireland but it reminded me of Southern Australia with the silver birch and eucalyptus forests. It was punctuated by meeting various contingents of the Leicester group and the lovely ladies Chris and Sandy from Folkestone, among others.

First highlight was a man making walking sticks in all shapes and sizes. Next was KM 33 (As Quintas) and the ‘Wall of Wisdom’ a charming set of thought provoking questions and quotes eg ‘It is good to have an end to journey towards but it is the journey that matters in the end’ (Hemingway) or ‘Travel makes one modest. You see what a tiny place you occupy in the world’ (Flaubert).  From there it was on to A Calle where we stopped to take pictures at the Casa Tia Dolores where tradition has it you drink a bottle of Peregrina (Pilgrim) Beer then write your name, home town and a wish on the bottle. The bottles are then displayed as trees and other structures and as a Christmas tree. There were masses of bottles and a very jolly group of Spaniards leading some community singing!

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From A Calle we walked on to Salcede our coffee stop, some 12 km into the day. Food was good but the service was slow because the owner was the most outrageous flirt. He drew Julia in coffee and insisted on having his picture taken. Many of the Leicester group had also decided to take a pit stop at the same place and we passed a relaxing hour or so. From there it was a pleasant 8kms to our stop for the day A Rua where the same cheerful Italian from the morning had relocated and stamped our passports. Despite the length it was a really lovely day.

The icing on the cake was being collected by a really bouncy young Spanish lady, who was overflowing with enthusiasm for our accommodation. She was not wrong. We were spending the night in a wonderful watermill with super views and the sound of water just outside our room. We ventured down to the river, which was meant to have curative powers. We tried feet first but decided it was so cold that the only curative property was shock!! We were then treated to the most exquisite meal with 3 starters of local cheese, honey and hazelnuts, languoustine and then Galician croquettes, followed by delicious Galician beef and padron peppers and then a wonderful dessert of bread, ice cream and caramel sauce – all divine. 

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Day 8 A Rua to Lavacolla

After a sumptuous breakfast we were driven at breakneck speed to A Rua – I am not sure where the fire was!! It was a beautiful morning with a gentle 10km ahead of us, through more lovely eucalyptus forests. Again, much friendly banter, with many familiar faces and our normal daily salute from the team from Leicester. We wound our way around Santiago Airport and into the pretty little hamlet of San Paio where we stopped for coffee. I asked the bar lady where she had learned her excellent English and she had spent 6 years on the Isle of White! When she gave me my change she held my hand and said “Thank you for coming”.

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As we left San Paio we came across a very touching tribute to someone who had obviously died young and done a few pilgrimages ‘Those were the days my pilgrim friend, I thought they would never end.’

Our end point for the day was just a little further on in Lavacolla where traditionally the pilgrims washed before entering Santiago. These days they would be pushed as it is a very small and rather smelly stream!

We were in yet another fabulous 16^thcentury house in the country about 8kms from Santiago. Beautifully restored and with the most exquisite views over the hills above Santiago.  By this point we had walked around 115km and have about 9km to go to Santiago!

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Day 9 Lavacolla to Santiago

After yet another delightful spread for breakfast – we have had nothing to worry about the last few days (!) and capturing a piece of cake for our afternoon cup of tea – a winning formula most days – we set off for our final days’ walk.  We had a tantalising glimpse of Monte do Goso, our half-way point for the day as we were driven to our start point. After a brief stop for photos at a more pre-possessing part of the river in Lavacolla, imagining the pilgrims washing in preparation, we set off.  It was a fierce hill for the start of the day that got the heart going and the Achilles screaming – no talking just much puffing! It felt like 5km pretty much uphill until we got back to the point we had been driven along about an hour and half earlier.

Monte do Gozo (Hill of Joy) was beautiful and aptly named. Traditionally, pilgrims were prevented from getting closer to the city than the Chapel of San Marcos at the entrance to Monte do Gozo if they had leprosy. It is also the first place where pilgrims get to see the spires of the Cathedral. Today there is also a modern sculpture, which I thought was rather spectacular, and celebrates Pope John II’s visit and World Youth Day in 1989. The base of the sculpture depicts the Pope’s visit and a pilgrimage of St Francis of Assisi in the early 13^thCentury.Sadly it needed some clever photographing as it was surrounded by tape and fence.

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The next part of our visit to Monte do Gozo was both beautiful and poignant. We walked on to the at two bronze 12’ statues of waving pilgrims. The statues were quite beautiful with the two pilgrims pointing at the city. It gave us our first view of Santiago and the Cathedral. We were alone up there and it seemed a fitting time to leave the shells I carried for Charlotte, my cousin Sue’s grandson and my mothers’ lost baby. I had written their names and the dates of our trip – it was quite moving and a lovely spot to remember them.

From Monte do Gozo we started the long descent into Santiago. The 2-3kms on the outskirts were a bit grim and industrial and a real culture shock to see people who were not Camino walkers and traffic – all a bit overwhelming and not altogether pleasant after the peace and tranquillity of our forests trails.

Once we got into the city walls Santiago was beautiful – white and stone buildings, narrow streets and every few yards another lovely building, church or façade – utterly charming. By now to our surprise the number of fellow Camino travellers had thinned out and the familiar yellow arrows and shells that had guided our steps over the previous fortnight were in short supply.  Thankfully Google maps came to our rescue at the bitter end!

We skirted around the Cathedral and joined arms to walk into the Praza de Obradoiro. As the Cathedral is shut for renovation we could not run up the steps and embrace St James to say we had finished – as a result we were slightly uncertain where to stop and say we had finished. It was hard not to be overawed by the sheer magnificence of the square and the Portico de Gloria and the architectural wonder of the Parador, our home for the night.  It was breathtaking and both hard and sad to believe we had finished. I felt ever so slightly irritated by all of the tourists who had not shared our Camino experience and bonhomie of the last fortnight – not very pilgrim like I know!

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Having checked in to the Parador – what a glorious, glorious experience, we headed over to the Pilgrim office to get our Compostela and Certificate of Distance. We had heard tales of this taking upwards of two hours. We arrived to a short, well-organised queue in lovely cool surroundings with pretty gardens and were through in 40 minutes. Having our certificates did make it seem real and we strolled to a little café down the street to sit down and enjoy coffee and beer. We got chatting with a lovely couple from Arizona and a young girl from Munich both of whom had done different parts of the Camino and had a little reprise of the Camino spirit as we shared conversation and food with them.

Our next little diversion was a complimentary spa about a mile from our hotel where we enjoyed sauna, steam and jet pools. We had a couple of hilarious hours being pummelled by jets which made us feel a bit like astronauts in training, especially with the silly bathing caps we had to wear. Our ‘foot massage’ turned out to be a bare foot walk across pebbles with cold jets hitting us – it resembled walking on a UK beach in the rain! It did give us a good giggle and probably did something some good to our much-used muscles!

More delight awaited us back in our hotel, which was just sumptuous. The bathroom alone was bigger than some of the rooms that we had elsewhere!! The setting of the Parador was beautiful and the history showed on every wall and in every room. The Spanish Monarchs, Ferdinand and Isabella built it in 1486. It is widely considered the oldest continuously operating hotel in the world, and has also been called the most beautiful hotel in Europe – I can see why!! It originally served as a hospice and a hospital, where pilgrims could recover and rejuvenate after completing their pilgrimage. Pilgrims were allowed to recover for 3 days in the summer, and 5 days in the winter, wish we had that long! 

We decided to eat in the hotel but unfortunately could not get a seat in the Dos Reis restaurant, as it was fully booked by the time we checked in. We opted for the simpler Enxebre Restaurant specialising in Galician food. Unfortunately we opted for the Pilgrim menu, available everywhere on the route – a simple set menu. This proved to be a miss on our part and slightly disappointing for our last night. However, soon forgotten when we headed out into the square and heard some beautiful classical voices from the cloisters of the Town Hall. We followed the sound and found a minstrel troop singing beautiful arias. It was wonderful to listen as the sun went down.

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After a wonderful night’s sleep the disappointing supper was more than compensated for by a simply spectacular breakfast.  We spent a happy couple of hours luxuriating in everything breakfast had to offer reflecting on the previous 10 days and savouring successful completion of out trip.

After breakfast we went for our last explore of Santiago before heading to the airport. We headed for the Monastery, which is a church, a museum and a hotel. Our lovely group from Leicester spent the night in monks’ cells, which is the other ‘must stay’ accommodation in Santiago. The Monastery was very beautiful with a series of magnificent altars built in the 17th and 18th centuries. From there we headed back to the Cathedral where I lit some candles. As we left we could see a crowd of people gathering on the steps. Being nosy we hung around to see what was going to happen.  We were rewarded with a parade of musicians and Galician folk dancers with huge paper mache heads who then gave us a colourful display of dancing – a real treat. Once that finished it was time to head to the airport and the journey home.

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Did I have any great insights or revelations?  It was a special way to commemorate Charlotte and the other babies lost in my family – Archie and Aelfie – and raise money to help others. Their shells travelled in my backpack with us each step of the journey as far as Monte do Gozo. Beyond that, the sheer camaraderie on the Camino is uplifting and nourishing. Similarly the beauty of the scenery and peace is a break from the hustle and bustle of day-to-day life. I have made some great memories and had some real laughs with two great, great friends. I have also started to experience finishing full time paid work is a beginning not an end – that there are new goals to be set and achieved, rather than having a first seat in God’s Waiting Room, a fairly deep seated fear! I feel fitter and less constrained by the limitations of the aftermath of breaking my ankle. All in all, one of the best things that I have done. Walking has got under my skin and there is now talk of the Camino Portugues…. Watch this space.